Wednesday, May 16th, 2012

Diving in Lake Malawi

By Jonny Newton

Freshwater Diving … no thanks, not for me. Just the thought of it used to bring back haunting memories of freezing my toes off on an overcast morning in some dank quarry. Visibility zero, water temperature 6 degrees and air temperature not much better. If I remember correctly, the highlight of one particular dive was bumping into discarded shopping trolleys from three different supermarkets! As an unashamed ‘fair-weather diver’ I had no inclination to drop back into any type of desalinated underwater environment. That of course all changed when I stumbled upon Lake Malawi

By on Tuesday, June 8th, 2010 - 1,641 words.

Lake Malawi

Freshwater Diving … no thanks, not for me. Just the thought of it used to bring back haunting memories of freezing my toes off on an overcast morning in some dank quarry. Visibility zero, water temperature 6 degrees and air temperature not much better. If I remember correctly, the highlight of one particular dive was bumping into discarded shopping trolleys from three different supermarkets! As an unashamed ‘fair-weather diver’ I had no inclination to drop back into any type of desalinated underwater environment. That of course all changed when I stumbled upon Lake Malawi.

Malawi is known for … well, to be honest, beyond Madonna it is known for very little. A small landlocked nation in Central Africa, sandwiched between the equator and the Tropic of Cancer and overshadowed by its’ larger and better known neighbours Zambia, Tanzania and Mozambique. What Malawi does have is a reputation as the ‘Warm Heart of Africa’, which despite being a moniker incessantly pushed by its’ tourism industry, is for once, quite apt. When crossing into Malawi via any of its overland borders, there is a tangible sense of being able to drop your guard and not worry about being hassled by the multitude of hawkers who pop up at any tourist destination. Malawi has more of a chilled out Caribbean feel, which is only enhanced when any visitor inevitably reaches the shores of its’ eponymous Lake.

Lake Malawi is a continuation of the Great Rift Valley that originates in Syria before diving into the Red Sea on its way south, and eventually settling on Malawi’s eastern border. A freshwater body the size of Wales, it acts as breadbasket to the country by providing water, fish, tourism and life. Like its geological cousin a few thousand kilometres north, the Scuba Diving is excellent. Though, at an altitude of 470 metres special precautions have to be taken. Switching your computer to its correct altitude setting will do, otherwise it’s a case of adding 10% to your depth whilst working out Nitrogen levels and ascending twice as slow than at sea level. Unlike most altitude diving, there is certainly no need for gloves and a hoodie with a water temperature varying from a balmy 24 degrees in June to a scorching 30 degrees in December! In the Bays of the Northern lakeshore visibility is consistently good and can peak at 20 metres in May. The freshwater together with the tropical water temperature means that with 3-5mm wetsuits, many can forgo cumbersome weight systems. Quarry diving this certainly is not!

What makes Malawi diving beautiful, isn’t just the stunning rock formations that are an underwater continuation of the escarpment as it plunges into the Lake, but also the endemic Cichlids. Popular as freshwater aquarium fish around the world, Cichlids have an incredible diversity. As a fish that develops remarkably quickly, combined with being fiercely territorial, different species have evolved to produce a Lake more diverse in fish life than any other. Over a thousand different types have been accounted for, with more being discovered all the time. In Africa, Cichlids can also be found in Lake Tanganyika, and were once prevalent in Lake Victoria until hungry Nile Perch with a taste for Cichlid flesh were introduced as an ill-fated fishing enterprise. If you want to see the African Cichlid in its’ habitat, then Lake Malawi is your best bet. With several Dive schools stretched from Nkhata Bay in the North to Cape Maclear in the South, via both islands of Chizimulu and Likoma, accessibility and equipment hire certainly isn’t a problem. Neither is accommodation, with all dive spots being in the vicinity of rooms to suit all tastes and budgets.

Cichlid species vary remarkably between different locations, and in many dive spots you can be safe in the knowledge that some of the fish you are swimming with cannot be found anywhere else in the world. This has led to some aquarium enthusiasts paying hundreds of dollars for one rare specimen. To Cichlid laymen however, they all simply look small and pretty! A multitude of different tropical colours on show, as various Cichlids graze on rock algae, each species developing different lip formations as not to compete over the same food source. Fish of deep blue and purple shimmering through the translucent waters, complemented by others of bright yellows and whites. These optical pleasures aren’t limited to above rocks, many Cichlids feed from the water column and some have even evolved to spend their entire existence upside down in order to monopolise the underside of vast subterranean slabs.

The only time prior to diving Lake Malawi that I had witnessed mouthbreeders was on the big screen when watching Finding Nemo. In the Lake, I couldn’t go on a dive without seeing it several times. I don’t think anyone could get bored of viewing this instinctual phenomenon. Females lay their eggs and then scoop them in their mouths for protection, where they are fertilised and born. Once on safe ground, they will release their brood of up to 100 and keep a watchful eye for predators whilst they feed and the young take their first tentative fins. If they feel threatened they swim up to the brood, open their mouths, and in two or three sweeps all the young form a tight clump and swim into their mothers beckoning mouth. Nearby the male will be tidying his crater in order to attract another egg laying female to it. The mating craters can occupy any area of fine sand, are built mouthful by mouthful, can reach up to 1 metre deep and are individually shaped into perfect concentric forms.

The unique diving experiences don’t stop when the sun goes down. Aqua Africa in Nkhata Bay, a longstanding Dive School with a great reputation for high teaching and safety standards, has built up an exceptional relationship with the nocturnal predators of the Lake. The resident Dolphin fish have learnt to utilize the regular night divers by using their torchlight to make their hunts more effective. I was fortunate enough to join them.

Leaving the Aqua Africa jetty at sundown, we leisurely motored the 5 minutes to ‘Playground Point’, situated off the end of the peninsula that splits the bay in two. The shrill of cicadas on land, being strangely complemented by the cacophony of dubious African pop filtering from various drinking dens in town. Replacing the sounds of dusk with the sounds of bubbles, we followed the anchor line to a large sandy patch surrounded by red rocks. As if on cue, 10 to 12 Dolphin fish with no sense of personal space were ducking and diving between us, seemingly revving themselves up at the promise of a good feed. Dolphin fish certainly aren’t the most beautiful of creatures, with their name being somewhat a misnomer. If it had been my decision, I’d have probably settled on ‘Eel-like-ugly Fish’ instead of naming them after the most graceful and intelligent of marine mammals. Reaching up to a metre in length with small eyes and a snarly snout, the Dolphin Fish rely heavily on electric sensors to track their prey, unless of course there is a torch-wielding diver at hand. Following the dive group like a pack of hungry dogs for the entire forty minutes, the predators would sidle up to any unfortunate Cichlid mesmerised by the artificial light. Arching their spines in preparation for a quick lunge and snap before audibly clamping their jaws on dinner.

Once you get bored of, or are feeling guilty about playing god, there are plenty more night diving delights to watch out for. The elusive Kampango catfish with its shark like dorsal fin often makes an appearance, as do a multitude of fresh water crabs scavenging the floor for any morsel they can find. Wiser Cichlids shelter in the deep cracks of imposing boulders and tiny freshwater shrimp in shallower fissures. Back at the sandy patch for our safety stop, the red larvae of Lake flies are drawn in multitudes to our beams and bounce off glass as they try to edge closer to the bulb. And then we turn our torches off. Silence but for our breaths, as we stare at the clean night sky from 5 metres down.

Kate, manager and one of the resident PADI instructors at Aqua Africa, becomes coy when later over a cold beer I relay the complements that I’d heard about the great level of instruction at her Dive school. She explains that a lot of it has to do with the Lake itself. I figure that she is being a little too modest, but can certainly see her point about the conditions. With no saltwater to irritate your eyes or dry your mouth, minimal current, little surge and decent visibility, Lake Malawi is an entry-level divers dream. A perfect environment to hone diving skills before heading to spectacular higher-octane dive sites in the less predictable and unforgiving waters of the nearby Indian Ocean. With a floor of rock and sand, students with buoyancy issues can lay their fins or bums on the lake floor without fear of destroying a swathe of coral or being stung by any anti-social organisms. Most clientele are backpackers, attracted to the cheap Open Water courses and the laid back lifestyle of dusty Nkhata Bay.

Diving in the North of the Lake isn’t as seasonal as in the South. As it is sheltered by a natural harbour, there is usually protection from the easterly August winds. Tropical rains usually start by mid-November and continue with a range of intensity till April, though never enough to stop a dive!

Lake Malawi has made me re-evaluate Freshwater diving. Enough to get me back in that quarry? I don’t think so! But I’ve heard the Cenotes in Mexico are nice this time of year.

_____

This Article was published in Divestyle Magazine, May/June 2010 Edition.

36 Comments

  1. Leah Borromeo says:
    June 8, 2010 at 15:20

    Malawi seriously needs to sort out its tourism. Lilongwe Airport is a flea-bitten shithole…. It's decent of you to help their "[luke]Warm Heart of Africa" drive, but there are structural problems holding the country back from capitalising on its tourism potential. As it stands, it's a quirky place to hit. And cheap. And not too bad if you're one of the bandanna-wearing development tourists. Yah.

    Reply
    • Jonny says:
      June 8, 2010 at 16:15

      I agree about the airport … but come on Leah … it's part of the charm!!!! There are massive structural and infrastructure issues, but again this article is about the Diving in the Lake, not the state of the potholed roads!!! None of this should stop intrepid tourists from giving it a crack in my opinion

      Reply
  2. akbar says:
    June 8, 2010 at 18:19

    i went there few years ago it was really something beautiful the diving the people really special i would reccomend it 100%. although i didnt dive i saw some poeple diving and thought that would be a good thing to do next time but i didnt have time. the airport is really a shithole it is true but you should see heathrow airport you have to walk for 2 hours to get anywhere i prefer a flea bitten shithole anyday interesting article anway.

    Reply
  3. Merril says:
    June 10, 2010 at 19:25

    Interesting article Taking trip with kids in 2 weeks They love to Snorkel Any advise on Bilhazia

    Reply
    • jonny says:
      June 11, 2010 at 06:46

      Avoid still water, with an oily film, near reeds, and heavily populated … is passed by people wasting in the water. More of an issue in the South of the Lake. Best suggestion is to buy the medicine in Malawi, which you can get easily over the counter at most pharmacies or 'family planning clinics' [Banja La Mtsogolo], where they give you a certain dosage based on your weight. Then wait 3 months and take it. I'd get medical advice for the kids. Don't let it ruin your holiday, is easy to deal with. Have a great time!

      Reply
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  5. Sylvester Gambee says:
    October 26, 2010 at 00:18

    Yes you are totally spot on.

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  6. Sunher says:
    February 1, 2011 at 09:07

    Hi All,

    I'm a diving enthusiast and other than 1 person's comments above, I found little helpful. I'd be grateful if someone can give me an insight into the best diving spots at Lake Malawi and also some information on the nicer hotels.

    Much appreciated.
    Sunher

    Reply
  7. Bytesland says:
    March 16, 2011 at 10:08

    Ten meters deep in Lake Malawi, I realized that it was my first scuba dive in fresh water. "I can drink it while I dive!" I thought, but didn't risk trying. Usually, I don't get cold while diving, given that I have the right equipment. I move around so much taking pictures that it keeps me warm; besides, I am usually so enchanted by what I shoot that I don't notice the temperature. But in the lake, I did get cold. Not because everybody had long wetsuits, and I insisted on diving in a shorty, but because I was a bit bored. I think, I'd been spoiled by the shapes and colors of the Caribbean underwater, so Lake Malawi's various cichlids, though colorful but similar to one another, didn't impress me much.

    Reply
  8. tourist attractions says:
    March 28, 2011 at 17:09

    I have had the pleasure to visit Malawi. I had seen African exhibitions at museums before, but nothing compares to actually visiting and touring it for yourself. The "Warm Heart of Africa" isn't one of the typical tourist attractions that you would expect in Africa. It is serene, relaxed and hassle free. The biggest tourist attraction is the Lake Malawi and for great reasons. The scuba diving is breathtaking. The environment is nothing like I have seen before. If you are wanting a truly breathtaking place to travel to, I would definitely consider Malawi. It is definitely a tourist attraction worth spending the money for.

    Reply
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  11. bali villas says:
    May 7, 2011 at 09:55

    here you mention about lake Malawi which is the third largest lake of Africa if you want to evolution than you should go to lake Malawi because its famous for thousand of species of fish is generated here here you found the fish in each and every size from small to heavy size nice information for tourist to join this lake

    Reply
  12. pulse oximeter says:
    May 9, 2011 at 17:55

    Reading this gets me so excited to throw on my swim trunks, grab my gear, and head to the open water.

    I'm with you, I was vehemently against fresh water scuba, but then I visited Lake Michigan and was hooked. Loved checking out all the ship wrecks. Plus, living in the Midwest, it's a lot more practical in a financial sense.

    Now, by no means am I trying to compare Lake Michigan to Lake Malawi. It appears to be on a whole different level. I find the fact that the dolphin fish adapted to the presence of divers' lights and used them advantageously to be quite fascinating. However, the audible sound of them dining would have probably freaked me out!

    If you end up in the Cenotes, I'd love to hear a trip report. Diving down there is in my five year plan. Hopefully, I can make it happen.

    Cheers, Wyatt

    Reply
  13. rankgrowers says:
    July 16, 2011 at 10:29

    I'm a diving aficionado, I found modest obliging. I'd be appreciative if a celebrity can give me an handy into the best headfirst spots at Lake Malawi and also some in turn on the nicer hotels. auto shipping

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  14. Peter Langone says:
    July 28, 2011 at 14:18

    This is what I have been searching in many websites and I finally found it here. Amazing article. I am so impressed. Could never think of such a thing is possible with it…I think you have a great knowledge especially while dealings with such subjects.
    Peter Langone

    Reply
  15. Peter Langone says:
    July 28, 2011 at 14:18

    This is what I have been searching in many websites and I finally found it here. Amazing article. I am so impressed. Could never think of such a thing is possible with it…I think you have a great knowledge especially while dealings with such subjects.
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    Reply
  16. buy essays online says:
    August 14, 2011 at 19:15

    If you end up in the Cenotes, I'd love to hear a trip report. Diving down there is in my five year plan. Hopefully, I can make it happen.

    Reply
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    August 30, 2011 at 05:24

    the regular night divers by using their torchlight to make their hunts more effective. I was fortunate enough to join them.electric cigarette

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    September 1, 2011 at 07:39

    I think Freshwater Diving is a great fun specially when we are crazy about water sports :)
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  22. Silver Coast says:
    September 14, 2011 at 17:02

    Wow, this looks incredible. I never considered lake malawi as a destination. Thanks.

    Reply
  23. Nancy says:
    September 23, 2011 at 10:04

    Many thanks Jonny for this blog, I am setting off for Malawi in 4 days and I can not be more excited. I have my resue diver but never dived fresh water before, I have to admit that I had hear mixed reviews about the diving over there but you have sold it too me, yes it is not going to be the intense cliff dives of the indian ocean however it sounds like it will be warm, colourful and very relaxed…I can almost hear the strress sipping out off me at the thought. Bring it on.

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  30. Jonny says:
    January 20, 2012 at 23:23

    Am re-visiting this post after some time – and delighted to see such positive comments here. Thanks all – and for those of you who made it to the Lake, i hope it lived up to your expectations!

    Jonny

    Reply
  31. mary corset says:
    February 25, 2012 at 00:34

    wow i would love to go diving in that beautiful later it soo blue.

    Reply
  32. David says:
    April 6, 2012 at 08:25

    Is there anyone in here who has plans for visiting Lake Malawi this summer!? Me and 2 friends from Denmark has discussed alot – should or should not!_How is the hostels/hotels in Malawi? And how are they seeing on white people? I run a farm in Zambia and there are no problems in Zambia.. Just to be sure..

    Reply

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An Englishman new to Pretoria, trying to navigate my life through the high walls and electric fences of this socially, economically and racially divided city.

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